Micks91

Review: Grandeur Strange 39mm (Silver/Black) – A Masterclass in Missed Potential

This one hurts. Not because I got a dud, but because I wanted this watch to be great. The Grandeur Strange 39mm, limited to just 100 pieces, had all the makings of a cult hit: weirdly beautiful case, offbeat dial layout, and a fresh brand taking risks. But what I ended up with was a harsh reminder that good design can’t save bad execution.

Let’s talk movement - or more accurately, whatever this thing inside is. Billed as “in-house” (and presented with just enough smoke and mirrors to make you believe it), it’s actually a modified "something" which i havent been able to find any info on, that tries to deliver a jump hour complication. What it delivers instead is confusion. The hour hand frequently lands between numerals, especially near the hour change, and doesn’t snap into the correct position until well into the hour. So unless you’re timing your glances with the precision of a lunar eclipse, telling the time becomes a guessing game. At £1,000, that’s not charming, that’s infuriating.

Now here’s the kicker: they’ve sold solid gold versions with stone dials for £9,000+, using this exact same movement. I wish I was joking. You’re paying five figures for the same flawed, misaligned jump hour mechanism, just dressed up in a heavier case and shinier stone. It’s outrageous. You’d expect an independent brand charging that kind of money to offer a unique caliber or at least a properly functioning one. Instead, it’s smoke, mirrors, and gold plating.

Zoom in on the dial and things don’t improve. The material looks and feels plasticky. There’s a toy-like finish to the numerals and dial surface that completely undermines the “avant-garde art piece” vibe they’re going for. It photographs well, I’ll give them that, but in person, under natural light? You can feel the corners they cut.

The case, admittedly, is still pretty cool. The melting, Dali-esque shape is what got me in the first place. And at 39mm, it sounds like it should wear great. But it doesn’t. It’s unnecessarily thick, rides high on the wrist, and the awkward lug profile makes it look bigger than it is. Definitely not as wearable as I had hoped.

They throw in a few leather straps in different colours to sweeten the deal - but again, the quality just isn’t there. Stiff, cheap-feeling, and a pain to break in. Another area where the effort looks good on paper but feels half-baked in reality.

I’ll give credit where it’s due: the concept is great. We need more independent brands willing to take design risks and challenge the status quo. But if you’re going to push boundaries, you have to nail the fundamentals — and this doesn’t. You can’t charge four figures and then flub the basics like timekeeping and build quality.

In hindsight, I let the limited edition hype and slick marketing cloud my judgment. It’s one of those watches you buy with your eyes and regret with your wrist.

Lesson learned. Won’t be fooled again.

Review: NOMOS Club Date 38 Limited Edition for Hodinkee – Pacific Blue

One of 75 – and yes, I’m still grinning.

We watch collectors love to roll our eyes at limited editions - until we get one! The moment my order confirmation for the Pacific Blue Club Campus hit my inbox, I was practically giddy. Nomos only made 75 of these in this colorway, and with Hodinkee’s track record, I knew it wouldn’t hang around long.

Let’s start with the dial, because that’s really the headline here. The “Pacific” blue is unlike anything else in my collection. It has a soft matte tone that seems to shift and come alive in the sunlight, calm and muted indoors, but radiant and vibrant the moment it catches natural light. It’s one of those dials that makes you check the time just to see it again.

The case, at 38.5mm across and a very wearable 8.45mm thick, is right in that sweet spot of modern-versus-classic sizing. It wears flat, hugs the wrist beautifully, and looks balanced on a variety of wrist sizes (mine included). Nomos always does a great job with proportions, and this is no exception.

Flip the watch over and you’re greeted with a view of the in-house DUW 4101 manual-wind movement. For a watch in this price bracket, around $2,000 at release, having a fully in-house caliber with Nomos’s proprietary swing system is a serious value proposition. It’s well-finished in that signature Glashütte three-quarter plate style, and the open case back lets you appreciate just how far Nomos goes to deliver craftsmanship that punches well above its weight.

As for the strap… well, we’re being honest here. It’s serviceable, but nothing to write home about. The velour leather looks good out of the box, but doesn’t feel quite up to the standard of the rest of the watch. That said, this is an easy fix, I’ve already thrown it on a high-quality shell cordovan strap and it sings.

What really sets this watch apart, though, is the minimalist Bauhaus design. No clutter, no gimmicks - just clean lines, subtle typography, and functional beauty. The dial symmetry (aided by the color-matched date window) keeps the aesthetic refined and uncluttered. It's a design that doesn’t try too hard - and because of that, it works effortlessly.

In terms of value for money, this is where Nomos continues to shine. The level of in-house production, distinctive design, and limited run exclusivity make this a strong contender for one of the best everyday watches you can get under $3,000. It’s rare to find something that feels this well-built and thoughtfully designed at this price - especially when it’s also a conversation starter.

All in all, the Nomos Club Campus 38 “Pacific” for Hodinkee is one of those rare pieces that combines collector-grade uniqueness with daily wearability. I bought it because I loved the dial - I’m keeping it because it keeps surprising me.